Mondrian × SKÅDIS — What's new

Pick your printer. The Board menu has a Printer list, set to the Bambu Lab P1S (256 mm bed) unless you choose another. Its bed caps how big a panel can be, and now how long a rail can be too. Not on the list? Type your own bed size under Advanced dimensions.

What you see is what you print. A rail used to be one long bar on screen that only got cut up when you exported it, so a line across a 56 cm board looked like one part and came out as three. Now no rail is longer than the bed. Draw a long line and it becomes several rails straight away, cut into near-equal lengths (520 mm makes 180 + 160 + 180, not 240 + 240 and a 40 mm scrap), with a thin pale line where one ends and the next begins. Drag an end and it stops at the bed. Switch to a smaller printer and every rail that no longer fits splits on the spot. Designs you saved earlier split the same way when you open them; rails marked printed stay as they are.

Big magnetic containers get a plate each. Piece STL puts the panel and its box together on one plate, beside each other or one above the other, whichever fits. When a big container doesn’t fit the bed either way, you get a .3mf with two plates instead: the back panel on plate 1, the front box on plate 2. Same parts, same magnets.

A container that covers its panel hangs on two rails. When a magnetic container is as wide and as tall as its panel, you never see the panel, so it no longer prints whole. It becomes two rails, one down each side, each with a line of pegs and the two magnets at its ends. The middle and its pegs are gone, which saves filament and print time, and the box's back window now opens onto the board between the rails, a clear way out for cables. Tick Closed back if you'd rather nothing gets through. Untick Side rails only to print the whole panel as before. A smaller box leaves part of the panel on show, so that panel stays whole.

Sealing a channel edge works. Ticking Seal channel exits for an edge now really closes the cable channels on that side with a solid rim. Before, nearly every panel ignored it and left the channels open.

Magnetic container rails match the black rails. When a magnetic container covers its whole panel, its two side rails are now the same as the black divider rails: 20 mm wide on every layout, a thin front strip with a block at each peg and at each magnet, and room for cables under them in between. The box's magnets move onto the rail's centre line to match.

No more wild numbers. Weld overlap and Plate margin now refuse values that would wreck a part (a stray 80 in either), and go back to their defaults with a note, the same way Board thickness does.

Four pegs, a third lighter. Each piece now prints just the 4 pegs nearest its corners instead of a peg in every hole it covers. That holds it just as firmly and cuts each piece by about a third: on a full 56 cm board, roughly 820 g and 45 hours of printing become 590 g and 33 hours. Want more on a heavy piece? Click any peg in the peg map to add or drop it (what shows solid is exactly what prints), press Clear to start with no pegs and pick your own, or set Pegs per piece to Every hole. Pieces marked printed keep the pegs they were printed with.

Rails always leave room for cables. With Cable routing plates, rails are always as deep as the panels, so cables can cross under them between the pegs. Before, unticking rail depth = piece plate depth quietly turned every rail into a thin bar pressed against the board, blocking every channel. That box now only matters for Slim plates.

Same colour, one rail. Pieces of the same colour side by side under a black line now share one rail across them, instead of a rail each. A long same-colour row that doesn't fit the print bed is split where its pieces are split, never in the middle of one.

Your design stays yours. With the editor open in two tabs, the last tab to save won, so an old tab could quietly put old settings back over your newer work; a tab that switched designs even made the others save into it; and opening a design from a link replaced the one you were working on. Now each tab saves only the design it opened, follows along when you change that design in another tab (and says so), and a design opened from a link gets its own place in your design list.

Edit piece fills the view again. With the SKÅDIS board shown behind it, a piece opened for editing sat small in one corner, because the view zoomed to fit the whole board. It now centres and fills the view with the piece (or rail) you are editing, with the board still drawn around it.

No more giant pegs from a typo. Board thickness sets how deep each peg reaches, and it accepted any number: a design with 160 in it exported pegs 17 cm long. It now only takes what a real SKÅDIS board can be (3 to 12 mm; steel boards are about 5.2, wood 4.8). Anything else is set back to 5 mm with a note saying so, including in designs you saved earlier.

A black board in Review. The whole-board Review now shows the SKÅDIS board black, like the black pegboard it may hang on. The Light board button next to Show pegs brings back the light board (and Black board switches back); your choice is saved with the design. While doing it we fixed a faint grid of lines that could show across the pieces on ordinary screens.

Rails cut where the pieces are. A long black line across the board used to be one rail cut wherever the print bed ran out, so the joins landed in the middle of a piece. Now every horizontal rail is exactly as wide as the piece below it, and every vertical rail as tall as the piece beside it. Where a crossing would be left open, the vertical runs on through it, one rail width further. Rails on boards you saved earlier are re-cut the same way when you open them; locked and printed rails stay as they are.

Rails at the board edge stay put. Opening the Rails step on a filled board could slide the rails along its outer edge 10 mm off it, and one could end up hanging past the edge. They now stay exactly where the pieces put them.

Every part comes out on its own. Piece STL used to fuse a panel and its box into one file, so Bambu Studio saw a single object. A piece with more than one part now comes as a .3mf where each rail, panel and box is its own object, ready to move, colour or skip. Select several pieces and you get one .3mf with every part of every piece separate, laid out on plates.

No more stray rail bits after a Mondrian fill. Rolling a new composition kept every old rail, and the ones the new panels covered left little 20 mm black squares at the crossings, with nowhere for a peg, which made the P1S export refuse the whole board. Those buried rails are now removed, a rail poking a scrap into a new gap is trimmed back, and the four compositions on offer no longer pass rails from one to the next. Locked and printed rails are left alone.

Photo frame, 15×10, landscape or portrait. The panel is recessed rather than built out, so the frame sits flush with its neighbours. A separate bezel holds the print and clicks on with four small magnets; lift it off to swap the photo. Every edge that would have printed as a flat ceiling now leans at 45°, bezel included, so the panel and the bezel both come off the printer without a single support.

Headphone hanger. One arm off the bottom of its panel, and from the front or from the plate it’s a clean arch — a curved band of even thickness, like a slice of tube, open all the way through. Set its width, its radius (smaller is taller, down to a half circle) and the band’s thickness. At the tip the arch rises on a short S-curve into a lip, so the headband can’t slide off — the band stays exactly the same thickness all the way, and the feet and front edge are rounded. Set the lip’s length too. A cable hole through the panel, inside the arch, lets a charging cable come from behind the board, run inside the arch and out the front. Size it to your plug — equal width and height is round, wider makes a slot — or untick it if you don’t need it. The feet sit flush with the panel’s bottom edge; the top of the inside curve is the one place the slicer adds support, standing on the bed inside the arch and sliding out of either end.

Panel backs print clean either way up. The P1S export stands panels on an edge for strength, and usually on their heads, because that needs the fewest supports under the pegs. But the raised pads the pegs sit on, and the blocks around magnet pockets, only had a 45° ramp on one end — so on its head, the other end was a flat ceiling and the back filled with tree supports. Every pad and magnet block now ramps down at both ends, and the photo frame’s recess leans at 45° top and bottom, so a panel prints with nothing on its back but the pegs, whichever way up it goes. The export also got better at picking that way up: it now only counts faces that genuinely hang over thin air.

Magnet size works on the back mount again. Changing Magnet ø or Magnet thickness on a magnets panel did nothing — the holes stayed at 8 × 2 mm. They follow the fields now, including on designs you saved before. The thickness is what sets the hole depth (0.4 mm deeper than the magnet, always leaving at least 1.2 mm of panel in front), and the field now says so.

Every accessory in view. The accessory picker is two rows across the full width instead of one row you had to scroll sideways, so all of them are there at a glance, most with their full names.

One ribbon, and a loop for every cable. The holder is a single continuous curve that loops one way, then the other, all the way along. Push a cable through the narrow gap at the top of a loop and it drops inside: the gap is deliberately narrower than the cable, so it has to spread the walls apart and they close again behind it. Nothing to thread, nothing to unclip.

Tell it your cable and the whole thing resizes. Every loop is sized around the diameter you give it — a thin USB lead or a 10 mm power cable — and the gap stays the same fraction of it, so a fat cable gets a generous opening and a thin one a tight one. The mounting pegs stay in the bar underneath, clear of the cable.

As many loops as the run will take. Leave the count at 0 and it fills whatever it’s sitting on: the full length of a rail, the full width of a panel face. Put a number in and you get exactly that many, centred.

A rail now shows you what it will print. Select a rail, open Edit piece, and its cable loops or key hooks are there in the preview — the same geometry the exporter writes, not a stand-in for it. Tick with cable loops or with key hooks and it applies to the rail you have selected, rather than only to the next one you draw.

A panel can carry a model and an accessory. Import your STL onto a panel and give that same panel cable loops or key hooks. Both show up in the editor, and both come out in the file.

Drop a rail in and it seats itself. Flush against the panels either side, with its mounting pegs running straight down the centre of the bar — the strongest place for them to be. No nudging it into position, no measuring, no wondering whether it will actually hang once it comes off the printer.

A rail covers the whole run it serves. Put one alongside a stack of panels and it takes the full height of that stack in a single bar. Where two rails cross, they close cleanly against each other, so a frame reads as a continuous black line the way a Mondrian should.

Your existing designs tidy themselves up. Open the Rails step and every rail you drew earlier re-seats onto the grid on its own. Anything you have marked locked or printed is left untouched — that geometry is yours, or already in plastic.

The black bars between your panels are now yours to place. Draw one exactly where you want it. Drag it along its line, or sideways onto a different one. Resize it by the handles or type an exact length. Delete the ones you don't want. A rail is an object with its own identity now, like a piece — so it stays where you put it however much you rearrange the board around it.

Lock it, or mark it printed. Locked pins a rail against every automatic adjustment. Printed freezes its peg pattern as physical: from then on it only slides in whole hole pitches, so the bar already sitting on your desk keeps landing in real holes. And you can switch individual pegs off a rail exactly the way you do on a piece — useful where a cable needs the space more than the rail needs the peg.

Or let the tool fill the gaps. One button lays rails into every gap that hasn't got one. It only ever adds: it never moves, resizes or deletes anything you placed. Draw half a line by hand, press it, and it completes the rest.

Your saved projects come across with their rails intact — lengths, locks and printed pegs included.

Asymmetric panels print and hang correctly. Half-width panels, panels whose pegs sit off-centre, anything that isn't the same left-to-right as right-to-left — these now come out of the exporter as exactly the part you designed, pegs landing on the real SKÅDIS grid. Whole-width panels were always fine; it is the interesting shapes that this opens up.

Look at the whole wall before you print it. The board review and the 3D scene export now build your wall the way you'll actually see it, fronts toward you rather than peg-side out — so a scene file opens ready to look at, and pieces sit left-to-right where you put them.

Flip model does exactly one thing. It mirrors your imported STL inside its own footprint. The pegs stay where they were and a hole you punched stays where you cut it, so a flip is now something you can reach for freely instead of a change that quietly moves the rest of the part.

Pieces read as pieces in the wall review. A panel carrying an imported model wears its own Mondrian colour across the whole body, rather than the model drawing flat grey against a coloured backplate. The SKÅDIS pegs stay neutral — they're board fittings, not part of your composition.

The back of a panel is now a flat field with a pad under each peg, and nothing else. Less plastic, less print time, and a part that sits properly against the board instead of rocking on material that was never holding anything.

Cables cross wherever they like. With the back cleared between the peg rows, a 100×50 panel on five pegs gives you five uninterrupted full-width channels to run cable through — no threading around blocks.

Small panels keep every support. Fewer than three pegs, or all of them in a single row, and the full support field stays: there isn't enough spread to hold the panel flat without it.

Clearer 3D while you work. The edit view x-rays just the pegs rather than the whole part, and ghost supports stay out of the preview.

Screwdriver / tool rack. A shelf off the panel face with a row of holes through it — screwdrivers, files, pliers, anything with a handle wider than its shaft. Hole count, diameter, spacing, depth and shelf thickness are all fields, so you can size it to the tools you actually own. It sits on the bottom edge of its piece, so the part never begins in mid-air on the bed.

Lidded parts bin. A box for small parts with a lid that prints as its own part alongside it.

A note if you're reopening an old project: a phone dock and a cable comb were briefly in the catalogue and have been withdrawn. A piece that used either opens set to no accessory, rather than silently turning into a different shape.

Three fields are gone: Up axis, Backplate face, and the plate's Mount face. They were meant to turn your imported model. What they actually turned was the SKÅDIS back plate — the same part came out facing four different ways depending on which one you picked, while the model barely moved. Backwards, and easy to fight for an hour without working out why.

Turn the model with Rotate X / Y / Z. That's the whole story now. The plate is welded to the piece on the board and does not move: it is always the piece's own footprint, pegs out the back, exactly like a panel with no model on it. The three rotation boxes reach every position the old fields could — and the ones in between, which they couldn't.

Fixed on the way: pegs and holes that missed. Exporting used to flip the plate left-for-right — harmless on the usual whole-width panels, where the peg pattern is the same either way, and wrong on everything else. A 1½-wide panel printed its peg 20 mm from the nearest real hole and simply would not hang. A hole punched off-centre came out at the opposite end of the plate. And a magnets panel put its wells on the side away from the container's magnets. All three were the same flip, and it is gone: what you export is now exactly the panel you designed.

Your existing designs come across with you. Every saved project, and every design recovered from a code or a bundle, has its old orientation folded into its rotation boxes the first time it loads — you'll see the angle written down in Rotate X/Y/Z where it used to be hidden in a dropdown. Most open exactly as they were. Some combinations of the old Up axis and face settings described an arrangement that simply cannot be reached by turning a model, only by mirroring it, and mirroring your STL is not something this tool will do to you — those come back with the model flipped left-for-right on the plate. If yours is one, Flip model puts it back.

Imported models now survive a reload, and the whole project — design plus every STL, STEP and 3MF it uses — exports and reloads as a single zip file.

Magnetic container. A new accessory that isn't welded to the panel. It prints as its own part and clips onto the front with four magnets, sitting over the panel's cable hole. Pull it off, rearrange the cables behind it, put it back — nothing stacked above it has to come down. The panel's face stays flat and unbroken: the magnets hide in wells bored from the back, behind a thin skin whose thickness you set.

Both parts in one click. Piece STL now hands you the panel and the container in a single file, side by side and never touching, with the container already lying floor-down for the bed. Multi-select and the print package do the same, so a magbox's two bodies always travel together.

You can see it while you design. The container is drawn in the 3D view, pulled off the panel front so the two read as separate parts instead of one lump — with a checkbox to hide it when you want the panel to yourself.

Bigger holes. A hole used to be refused the moment it met a peg, which on the 20 mm peg grid capped you around 30 mm. Now the hole wins: it cuts straight through and the pegs in its way are simply left off — up to a floor that keeps enough well-spread pegs for the panel to still hang. On a 120 × 80 panel that's ~30 mm to 116 mm wide.

Set up for the magnets you actually own. Diameter, thickness, the skin over them, how far in from the corners they sit, and the pocket wall around them are all fields. The pocket wall defaults to 4 mm — nine perimeters — and where a magnet genuinely won't fit, the tool refuses and names the size that would, rather than quietly mis-cutting a pair that then miss each other.

Fixed on the way. A cable hole on a magnets panel was never actually being cut — the panel came out solid. That had been true since the magnets accessory shipped.

Inside dimensions. For the box accessories (container, planter base, document sleeve, card holders) there's now an Inside dimensions checkbox. Tick it and the width/depth/height fields mean the cavity — just type the size of the thing you want to store and the box grows the material around it automatically: +2× wall on the width, +wall on the depth, +3 mm floor on the height, with the corner radius shifted to match. If the selected piece is too small, the editor rejects the value and explains what must change instead of silently shrinking the cavity. Turn it off to size the box from the outside, as before.

Hole tool. Open a piece in 3D, pick a shape, and click any face to punch a hole there. Not just the flat plate any more: a container's floor and its side walls too, so a cable can actually leave the box it's sitting in. Pick edge notch and the hole opens onto the nearest edge, which means a cable that already has a plug on it slides in sideways instead of being threaded through.

SKÅDIS slots in your own pieces. The same tool punches real SKÅDIS slots on the 40/20 mm grid. A through slot works on any panel. A functional slot leaves a board-thickness wall with open space behind it, so a peg drops in and slide-locks for real — one Mondrian panel can carry another, and IKEA's own hooks fit. That needs an 11.2 mm thick face; on a thinner panel the slot is cut straight through instead and Check design tells you so rather than letting it ship quietly.

Gridfinity shelf. A new accessory: an L-shaped shelf off the panel face whose top carries the real Gridfinity baseplate profile, so standard bins drop in and seat properly. It fits as many whole 42 mm units as the panel allows and centres them, leaving a flat rim — your composition never has to move to suit the grid.

Drop in a .3mf file — from Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Fusion 360, or downloaded off Thingiverse/Printables/Makerworld — and it fits onto a piece or the SKÅDIS plate directly, same as STL and STEP. Reads the file's declared units so an import authored in inches or meters still lands at the right real-world size.

Drop in a .step or .stp file straight from any CAD tool and it fits onto a piece or the SKÅDIS plate directly — no more converting to STL by hand first. Every import is checked for a watertight, print-ready result before it's handed to you.

Print packages export P1S-optimized plates, match your design's colors to real Bambu filaments automatically, and group same-color pieces so you can move a whole shape as one.

Select several pieces at once and move them together. Route cables through divider rails. A dedicated mode builds wall-mount baseplates and clamps sized to any SKÅDIS board.

Imported STL models rotate on any axis to fit the mount. General cleanup pass ahead of the public launch.

Simple and Pro modes, a drag-and-drop accessory dock, a full 3D board review, and one-click Bambu print packages.

The black divider rails between pieces are now fully editable — draw, resize, lock, export on their own. Layouts can span several boards side by side. Undo/redo.

Fit any STL onto a piece. A backoffice page for managing incoming orders.

Parametric accessories (containers, key hooks, card holders, and more), one-click Mondrian layouts, cost quotes, and saved designs.

Lay out Mondrian-style pieces on a SKÅDIS board, mount them on real pegs, export print-ready parts.